Be the change you want in your dog. If you want your dog to be social, then take the lead and be social. If you’re in a dog park trying to socialize your dog – get out in the park and pet dogs, meet people, show your dog that you’re not scared, and that people and dogs are good.
I enjoy introducing dogs to dog parks. Many owners are nervous, and if they experience bad the first time, they may never come back. Many dogs show “aggression”, but they aren’t aggressive dogs, and they should be given a chance to prove they are able to be in a dog park – but not every dog belongs there. If you’re not sure, hire someone that can take the dog to the park for the first time – and follow from a distance. Owners need to see their dog just being a dog in order to start trusting them.
Many people go to dog parks to try to socialize their dogs – and this is great. But, don’t stand there like a lump on a log expecting the dog to figure everything out. Get out in the field, interact with the dogs in the park and interact with other people. You’re going to be showing your nervous dog that “hey, these dogs are great”, and “these people are good”. Your dog is going to feel your positive energy, going to see you interacting and should be willing to follow in kind. You’ll find it take much less time to socialize if you simply take the lead and show the dog everything is good.
I start with dogs being on a leash until I know they aren’t going to react negatively – then we move onto a 25 foot long line. Long lines have their issues as well, people and dogs get entangled but you’ll figure out pretty quick how to adjust. Some dogs do better in a harness on a long line – if your dog suddenly turns tail and runs, when the hit the end of the long line, they can get a bad correction when in a collar. On the other hand, harnesses give the dog more pulling power, coming to an abrupt stop can near rip your arm out.
Most importantly, think different. If you didn’t have a dog, the chances are very good you wouldn’t be going to a dog park. With that in mind, it’s your dogs time, not yours – a dog park shouldn’t be about full control. The dog needs to get out, sniff, meet dogs and people and just have fun – learn how to be “dog”. When I take Monty to a park, I follow him, let him choose where we go. I’m walking and keeping an eye out, if Monty needs help, then I step in.
Relax and remain calm, this is most important. If you are nervous, your dog is going to sense it and you may as well leave cause you’re likely not going to have a good time. Anger, frustration, screaming at your dog to come, it doesn’t work.
If you are not sure how your dog is going to react, use a muzzle – baskerville style preferred. Your dog may never have bitten, but if you aren’t sure – at least a muzzle gives you piece of mind that your dog can’t bite.
I have never had to teach recall to a dog. Recall for me is more about the relationship you have with the dog – and the question I ask – why is your dog running away and ignoring you? My dog stops to look for me, he always knows where I am. That was conditioned using a whistle.
If your dog doesn’t know vocal commands, then try not to use your voice. Use a whistle or a different sound. You can condition a “stop and look” with a simple whistle easily. Any time, day or night, blow a whistle, when the dog looks to you – offer up a bit of affection or “good dog” – not treats. Keep doing this til the dog always looks. When you’re at a dog park, a whistle should get the same result – stop and look. I also use a whistle for Monty as a locator – so he knows where I am if he’s off in the woods.
Everyone experiences something negative at a dog park at some point – how you deal with it dictates your future in dog parks. If a dog comes in with ill intentions or is aggressively playful, always try to deal with the offending dog, not yours – and only deal if your dog needs help. I typically take the offending dog by the collar and take it back to the owner. If I removed my dog from everything I deem negative, then Monty would never have confidence. He’s confident because he knows I’m going to step in to help when he needs it – I am his protector and he knows it. I’m not going to let my dog get hurt at a dog park if I can help it – but he needs to learn to stand on his own 4 paws as well.
Dogs will fight, or your dog may get attacked. It’s very rare, but it happens. In case of a fight, don’t react. At this moment, the dog needs someone to be strong – not bawling like a baby. It’s no different from a child that is injured – if the parent freaks out, the child tends to as well. As hard as it is, don’t coddle the dog, bring it to the vet if necessary but do try to get the details of the owner of the offending dog.
Toys are a big issue in a dog park. Bringing your dogs favorite toy can cause all kinds of issues – and fights. Another dog tries to take your dogs favorite toy, and all hell breaks loose. Leave the toys home – or bring something that the dog isn’t so attached to.
If your dog has squeak toys – and destroys them due to the squeaker – be very careful in a dog park. Some small dogs actually make squeaking sounds when they get excited or scared – and they become the squeak toy. Many trainers laugh at this, but I’ve broken up a few dog fights in the parks. And after talking to the owners, yes indeed the dog destroys squeak toys – and tried to destroy a small dog at the park.
Only you will know when your dog is ready to go off leash – it’s not my job to let your dog go. Typically for the dogs I work with, they go from leash to 25 foot long line. After a while, they can drag the long line and at that point, they might as well be off leash. It has to be the owners choice. I would not let a dog go off leash without the express consent of the owner.
I’m sure there are more, but you get the gist.